Van Horne Restaurant

I love fine dining. But what I love even more is savouring elevated dishes in a restaurant that feels warm and welcoming (which doesn’t happen as often as I’d like). Fortunately, I hit the jackpot when I was in Montreal a couple of weeks ago; our dining experience at Van Horne Restaurant is one I’ll remember for years to come…

Nestled on Van Horne Avenue in Outremont, the restaurant is oozing with character. And although the food is incredible, it’s the ambiance that really sets Van Horne apart. Owners Sylvie and Urs have managed to create a space that feels like an extension of their home. And on a frigid night in Montreal, that is exactly what we needed. We immediately felt like we were at an intimate dinner party hosted by friends. And as guests arrived, it quickly became apparent that others shared our sentiment…

As we settled in, Sylvie gently draped a soft green shawl over my shoulders. This wasn’t special treatment just for me: we watched in admiration as she visited each table to offer her guests another layer of warmth on the cold night. This gesture itself sums up the generosity of our host. After taking in the warm welcome, my attention quickly darted to the eclectic art that lined the walls. Van Horne may be the only place in the world where you’ll see Lichtenstein plates, the doors of the Iranian pavilion from Expo 67 and a totem pole all displayed in one space.

Now it’s time to make you drool over the food. Everything that came out of Chef Jens Ruoff’s kitchen looked like a work of art. But the ingredients he delicately incorporated into each dish didn’t just serve an aesthetic purpose; the carefully selected elements came together beautifully and resulted in well-balanced dishes that will tantalize any palate…

We began our meal with a rich fois gras mousse and a glass of Côtes du Rhône Villages 2009 Domaine Viret (the Sommelier, Karl Blain-Monet, has curated a solid wine list). Then we moved on to our first appetizer: kale, snails, turnips, daikon and shimeji ($15). This earthy dish had just the right amount of textural contrast and acidity to catapult our appetites into full gear:

Although they’re not a vegetarian restaurant, Van Horne will go the extra mile to accommodate guests if notified in advance. They created some tasty alternatives for my photographer. This potato, horseradish and sour cream dish ($14) looked so beautiful that I had to steal a taste:

Then came my beef tartare with oyster espuma, smoked cockles, black olives and pumpernickel ($16). The beef was the star ingredient: fresh and velvety. The dish also had a nice crunch courtesy of the dried black olives sprinkled on top.

And as I devoured the beef tartare, my photog had the vegetarian-friendly celery root served with nutmeg, egg, chestnuts and watercress ($22):

Next up was the monkfish, endives, ham and gruyere cheese ($28). Although I loved the endive and gruyere preparations, the monkfish was a tad underdone and bland for my liking.

The duck magret, red cabbage, bread pudding, miso and coffee ($29) was one of the most beautifully plated dishes I’ve seen. The duck had a great sear that sealed in the juices and the braised red cabbage was the perfect accompaniment for it. A match made in heaven. This dish was sublime:

My photog’s favourite dish was the ravioli stuffed with sweet potato, smoked yogurt, green onions, hazelnuts, wild mushrooms and black garlic ($15). She literally inhaled it.

Last, but certainly not least was the heavenly dessert: white chocolate, sour cherry ice cream, passion fruit, parsnip and beurre noisette ($9). It was a breath of fresh air. One of the best desserts we’ve ever tasted. The passion fruit coulis was pure perfection. And just look at this beautiful work of art…

I think we could’ve stayed in Van Horne Restaurant forever. Not only was the food exceptional, but the unpretentious atmosphere welcomes guests to the world of haute cuisine with open arms. Oh, and you won’t find many restaurants at this caliber that will offer up a stellar seven-course tasting menu for only $65. If you’re looking for a dining experience in Montreal that is both memorable and delicious, I suggest you look no further than Van Horne!

Special thanks to Van Horne Restaurant for hosting us. As always, all reviews and opinions are entirely my own.