Porzia: A Feast With The Family

Step inside Porzia and you’ll be welcomed – and fed – like you’re a part of Basilio Pesce’s famiglia. This is always a good thing, especially when it comes to Italian cuisine. Named after his mother, the Parkdale gem truly feels like an extension of Basilio’s home — complete with family photos (proudly displayed at the entrance), family rituals (each dinner service is kicked off with a staff meal) and plenty of homemade concoctions (from pancetta and ricotta to his wonderfully complex amari). I could go on, but I won’t. The most important thing you need to know is that his love for food and immense talent are reflected in every plate that comes out of his kitchen. Expertly executed and presented with a sense of pride (as if his mom is secretly surveilling each feast), the dishes are refreshingly simple, beautiful and will awaken your taste buds. Here’s a glimpse of what awaits you at the Pesce table…

Warm Olives And Almonds ($5) – Or what I like to call: happiness in a bowl. These Baresane olives are the best I’ve had in the city: salty, meaty, fresh — ok, I may be slightly addicted to olives. Do yourself a favour and get a bowl for the table. You can thank me later.

Cotechino With Fingerling Potatoes And Caper Agliata ($10) – This was my first time tasting the northern Italian sausage and definitely won’t be my last; it’s incredibly moist, perfectly-seasoned and drizzled with a delicious pesto and caper agliata. The fingerling potatoes are roasted in duck fat and add a hint of sweetness to the dish. A refined, Italian version of bangers and mash? Not sure, but it had me and my date (Elaine) smiling from ear-to-ear.

Gaspe Nordic Prawn With Preserved Lemon Aioli ($19) – These beauts from the St. Lawrence (river, not market) are only in season for a few weeks in the spring, but don’t worry: they’ll make a triumphant return in the fall. The preparation is spot on and allows the fresh prawns to shine through. The homemade aioli adds a nice creaminess and acidity to the dish, but I actually preferred the succulent crustaceans on their own.

Octopus With Semolina, Peanut & Apple ($25) – Although I fell in love with this dish at the spring menu launch, I found the octopus slightly under-seasoned and overcooked during our review. That being said, the textures (creamy semolina, crunchy apple, grilled tentacles) are masterfully combined so I would definitely order the dish again.

Albacore Tuna With Farinata, Taggiasca Olive & Mint ($17) – Combining simple ingredients to create a work of art, chef Pesce really blew me away with this dish. Every element on the plate serves a purpose – from the delicate tuna and farinata (crepe/pancake) to the mint and foraged onion flowers. It’s bright, fresh and deliberate: a dish that will have me coming back time and time again.

Spaghetti Carbonara – Although the pasta is not on the menu, it’s a favourite amongst regulars so chef Pesce whips it up by request. I can see why the creamy dish is popular: made with homemade pancetta and perfectly-cooked noodles, it’s comfort food at its best. However, I will say that I wasn’t a fan — I found the dish overwhelmingly salty for my palate. I had high hopes for this one but, sadly, I think it’s best kept off the menu.

Chicken Liver Agnolotti With Honey Mushroom and Balsamic ($16) – Yes, yes, yes. Back to the good stuff. THIS is a dish that belongs on the menu; showcasing chef Pesce’s in-depth knowledge of ingredients, it is beautifully-plated and somehow manages to be both light and rich at the same time. The agnolotti are heavenly pillows stuffed with a mousse-like chicken liver filling, the honey mushrooms add a mild sweetness and the stunning 15-year-old balsamic is just the right element to pull it all together. The dish is cohesive, deep and pairs nicely with a glass of Barbera.

Rhubarb Ricotta Cheesecake – Ah, la dolce vita. Made with homemade ricotta, this cheesecake is divine. The comfort food is elevated with a delicious rhubarb gel and dusted with a pistachio crumble. It’s light, slightly acidic and the perfect end to a beautiful dinner.

If you’re looking to share a meal with your own famiglia, I highly recommend checking out Porzia. The service is super friendly, the vibe is relaxed and the menu is product-driven (yeay for local, fresh ingredients) and constantly evolving (the perk of having a creative chef). Head there on a Wednesday night if you want to explore the menu: they run a small plates special ($10 each) so you can get a little taste of everything. Oh and these guys cater — in case you want to bring their family to yours. Regardless of how you experience Porzia, one thing is for sure: you’ll have an incredible feast made by one of the city’s most talented and hardworking chefs.

Special thanks to Porzia for hosting us. As always, all reviews and opinions are entirely my own.