Weekend Escape: Quebec Winter Carnival Guide

My heart raced, tears welled up in my eyes and a dolphin-pitched squeal escaped my mouth. Excited is an understatement to describe my level of joy. In fact, if my travel buddies didn’t know any better, they’d think I won the lottery. I kind of did in a way: the life lottery. You see, I’ve wanted to meet a special someone since I was in elementary school. And on a recent jaunt to Quebec Winter Carnival, I finally had my chance. Dreams — they do come true!! I not only got to squeeze Bonhomme (the KING of the winter festival), but had a rare opportunity to briefly chat with him (yes, he speaks!!)…

A few fun facts I learned about Bonhomme:

• He’s seven feet tall and weighs 400 lbs (of compacted snow, of course). Never melts — I asked.
• His favourite colours are white and red which you’ll see on his ceinture fléchée — a traditional arrow sash he proudly sports around his waist.
• He really likes ice cream — I love him even more now.
• And he dreams of one day reversing global warming. Understandably — don’t we all.

While I did consider stalking the friendly snowman as he made his rounds in Quebec City, it was my first time visiting during Carnival so I, instead, spent my time exploring, feasting and partaking in winter festivities with these lovely folks…

Here is a roundup of what we did to help you plan your visit:

Quebec Winter Carnival Guide

What To Do At Carnival

The first modern edition of Carnival took place in 1955. It has since grown to become one of the world’s largest winter festivals with over 200 activities and events at five sites dotting Quebec City. I encourage you to see and do as much as possible (many activities are free), but if your time is limited here are some of my personal faves:

Visit Bonhomme’s Ice Palace – This was a must on my list: I just had to see where the King resides. As frosty as I imagined, the custom-designed home looks a bit different every year. The 2017 structure was inspired from a concept by Laval University architecture students. The most interesting detail? Bonhomme’s art collection: graffiti art adorned his walls!

Play Giant Human Foosball – With the extra challenge of snow on the playing field, the giant foosball game is a hilarious way to infuse a bit of physical activity into your day (and a great way to warm up). Pick your team carefully — this one gets competitive!

Check Out The International Snow Sculpture Competition – Although I spotted stunning snow sculptures all around town, you’ll want to head to Parc de l’Amérique-Française for the official competition (free). Going strong for 45 years, it attracts participants from all around the globe!

Roast A Marshmallow – Mmm who doesn’t love the taste and smell of marshmallows over a wood fire?! This year the Parks Canada team set up shop and armed festival-goers with delicious spears capped with the white, fluffy stuff. I may have indulged in a few…

Zoom Down A Historical Toboggan – Hold tight! Reaching speeds up to 70 km/hr, the century old slide at Au 1884 is definitely Quebec City’s most thrilling attraction. You’ll also get an epic view of the St. Lawrence and Château Frontenac on the way down.

Aim For A Strike At Christie’s Giant Bowling – You’ll need a strong stomach for this one as you actually roll down a hill towards ginormous pins in a huge, transparent sphere! Watch how it’s done in this video by my travel buddy Arienne (0:35):

Get Your Party On At Jos’ Camp – Sip on warm Caribou (a traditional fortified/mulled wine concoction) and hit the dance floor in this party zone. You can even throw a few axes, ride a mechanical moose and visit a traditional sugar shack onsite — if that’s not a party, I don’t know what is…

What To Do In Quebec City

Admire The Majestic City Walls – As you enter Old Quebec by foot, car or horse carriage you’ll immediately notice its spectacular, historical walls. Fun fact: did you know that Quebec City is the only walled city in North America north of Mexico? Yup, and you can explore the 4.6 km wall (which is also a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site) via guided tour during the spring/summer/fall months. Bonus: Parks Canada is offering free admission to the fortifications in 2017!

Skate At Place D’Youville – Strap on your skates and spend some time gliding on this lovely rink. And if you’re lucky (or plan accordingly), you may even get a chance to skate with the man himself: Bonhomme!! I was sadly not visiting during his special skate days, but will def go back to make that dream come true.

Check Out The World-Famous Hôtel de Glace – Yup, there is an ice hotel in Quebec City and it’s just as magical as it sounds. A once-in-a-lifetime experience that belongs on everyone’s bucket list. Made using 30,000 tons of snow and 6,000 tons of ice, there are 44 different rooms and suites to choose from this year. Oh and the hotel is on Village Vacances Valcartier property so you can also take advantage of the outdoor playground!

Roam The Charming Streets – When visiting Quebec City, I highly recommend going for a long walk and getting lost on the quaint, European-style streets. The highlight for me? Taking the Old Quebec Funiculaire down to Quartier Petit-Champlain and exploring the picturesque streets.

Visit Marché Du Vieux-Port – I don’t know about you guys, but I can’t visit a city without checking out the local market. In my opinion, it’s the best way to meet locals, chat with passionate vendors and snag some great eats. From cider to duck chili (yup, Les Canardises sells the canned good), you’ll get your paws on some tasty finds. Just the cheeses alone at La Fromagère du Marché are worth the visit in my opinion. Oh and if you’re feeling adventurous, drop by Fou du Bio to try seal meat…

What To Eat In Quebec City

La Bûche – Put this resto on your must-eat list when visiting the city. I had a chance to chat with chef Donovan Ouellet and owner Yanick Parent at the Rue Saint-Louis joint and within the first few minutes I could tell these guys were true leaders in the culinary community. They take risks, go against the grain and love to innovate (they even make their own version of caribou, but shhhh). The ambiance at the Québécoise resto is cozy casual (think sugar shack), the service is solid and the menu items are drool-worthy.

Chez Ashton – No visit to La Belle Province is complete without poutine. Am I right?! Head to this local spot for some authentic, cheesy goodness. The restos are super casual (and look like any fast food chain), but quality is not compromised here — and neither are portions!

Le Tournebroche – Located at the popular Hôtel du Vieux-Québec, this gourmet bistro specializes in the art of the rotisserie. Organic Charlevoix Chicken is what you’ll want to order (they take great pride in working with local, family-owned farms to source their meats). These guys also have their own vegetable garden on the roof along with five beehives — don’t forget to grab some fresh honeycomb on the way out as a sweet treat! Oh, and the Chicken Creton is a must…

Auberge Louis-Hébert – Ok, let’s talk about the decor at this stunning resto. Set in a historical building, every element from the ceiling detail to the lighting is exquisite (I’m a huge fan of the dining room at the very back). And when it comes to food, Chef Hervé Toussaint is known to put out some refined dishes. He specializes in French cuisine and seafood — I recommend the Duck Ravioli with duck confit, mushrooms and port wine sauce.

Le Hobbit Bistro – When I asked random locals on the street where I should eat (something I often do), many pointed me to this cozy resto on Rue Saint-Jean. After feasting here, I can see why. These guys are the total package: charming ambiance, great food (order the Braised Buffalo Cheek Risotto) and the friendliest service ever.

Ristorante Il Teatro – Tucked under Hôtel du Capitole, this is a conveniently-located restaurant where you can get your Italian fix. The ambiance is lively, service is on point and I loved my Linguini Ai Frutti Di Mare (seafood served over linguine). But the highlight was their chocolate mousse: I could have a few rounds of the dessert!

Café-Boulangerie Paillard – I’m pretty sure everyone who walks past this bakery on Rue Saint-Jean gets drawn inside for a treat. These guys are known for their homemade bread and baked goods — they look amazing, smell heavenly and taste even better!

Where To Stay In Quebec City

Hilton Quebec City – There’s no better place to stay during the festival than at the official hotel of Quebec’s winter carnival. Why? It’s located just a few blocks from the old city, it’s steps from the festival sites, the rooms are incredibly spacious, the views are spectacular (note: I stayed in an Executive Suite on the 23rd floor), AND there’s a heated pool on the rooftop where you can thaw after a cold day. Make your reservations well in advance, this hotel books up fast!

I hope my Quebec winter carnival guide helps you plan a trip as magical as mine was. The city is truly a gem year-round, but has a certain je ne c’est quoi during the festival. It seems everyone embraces their inner kid and allows themselves to enjoy the simple pleasures. I know I did…

A huge MERCI to Québec City Tourism for hosting me on this press trip (well, technically, us: I was 35 weeks pregnant during our visit). As always, all opinions and reviews are my own.