Step Inside A Storybook: The Azores Island Of Terceira, Portugal

*By Erin Nicole Davis*

If you’re in the market for a balmy European beach vacation, you probably won’t find it in the Azores. As the locals will readily tell you, it’s common for the region – an autonomous group of Portuguese islands located in the mid-Atlantic – to experience four seasons in one day, and the temperature never climbs above 30 degrees Celsius. What you will find in the Azores is a peaceful and somewhat dreamy storybook-like landscape that’s filled with active adventures, natural wonders, and incredible views.

Over the past decade, the secret has slowly started to leak about a once unknown piece of paradise that is the Azores. The volcanic region attracts a growing number of curious visitors, yet is still years away from feeling even slightly touristy. Providing a completely different experience than the bustling beaches and streets of Lisbon, Portugal, the Azores offers more of an authentic, untouched vacation vibe. For those in pursuit of low-key, serene, and picturesque, Terceira makes a solid stop on an island-hopping Azores excursion, made simple with Azores Airlines.

What To Expect In Terceira

As the second most inhabited island in the Azores, the pasture-filled Terceira houses 52,000 residents, most of whom live along the breezy (sometimes super windy) coast. Filled with shades of green against the blue backdrop of the ocean and sky, the lush island of Terceira is a peaceful place where strangers have long conversations, cows outnumber people, terracotta roofs dot rolling hills, cobblestone streets transport you back in time, Japanese cedar trees fill the landscape, and “eating local” takes on a whole new meaning thanks to an abundance of farming.

Horse-drawn carriages aren’t an uncommon sight on the island, nor is it out of the ordinary to see a herd of cows casually strolling down the streets, where livestock has the right of way. It’s a quaint, safe place where nobody is ever in a rush and everyone is gracious to cars that pull over so that its camera-clad occupants can take in the stunning views of the sprawling landscape and the ocean below.

With no shortage of like-worthy photo ops, Terceira is definitely worth adding to your travel bucket list if you’re a lover of exploring breathtaking scenery, hiking, biking, food, wellness, and wine. In Terceira, you can get anywhere on the island in about 20 minutes by car – and I highly recommend you rent one to discover every last corner of this pristine part of the planet. If you’re physically able to, the best way to experience Terceira in all of its volcano, dramatic cliff, and greenery-filled glory is a well-balanced combo of driving, hiking, and biking.

The Photo Ops In Terceira

For some of the best views offered in Terceira, make sure your phone is charged and head to the mountain range lookout Serra do Cume. A winding drive takes you to the top of this volcanic crater rim, where – providing the weather cooperates in the cloud coverage department – you’ll find panoramic views of patchwork-like walls of volcanic stone that cover the landscape below. This spot offers the most complete views of the entire island. If you’re not averse to a solid hike, another notable lookout is Monte Brasil, the remnants of a tuff volcano that sits 205 metres high and offers stunning panoramic views over the bay and the town of Angra do Heroismo (which I’ll get to).

In the town of Biscoitos, black lava rocks that shoot up from the Atlantic Ocean punctuate the piercing turquoise water seen from the coastline. The water is often turbulent and uninviting, despite its captivating beauty, and angry waves crash against the rock to create a spray of mist that covers view-seekers if they get too close. On a summer day, you’ll find swimmers at Calheta dos Biscoitos, the largest natural pool in this region.

What To Do In Terceira

While there are a handful of natural swimming pools in Terceira, there are only two relatively small sandy beaches, the longest of which is found in Praia da Vitoria, one of the first points colonized on the island. Here, it may be worth booking a post-swim or post-watersport walking tour to take in the marina, narrow European streets, colourful old houses, historic buildings, public squares, and a pedestrian zone filled with local street vendors, shops, and markets. You’ll also find inviting restaurants.
Another must-hit spot is the island’s principle city, Angra do Heroismo, where you’ll immediately feel transported back into a rich, storied history as you stroll its cobblestone streets, passing by old churches, homes, forts, gardens, and convents. Full of impressive architecture, the city – the oldest in the Azores – has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983.

The Azores is full of storybook-like spots. In the centre of Terceira, a magical ancient lava cave has formed as the result of two volcanic eruptions 3,000 and 1000 years ago. Covered in dramatic fairytale-like vegetation, Algar do Carvão descends deep down a set of stairs into a captivating chamber and is one of the few places in the world where you can walk inside of an extinct volcano. A lagoon made of rainwater is found at its deepest point.

If you have a thing for wine – especially if you have the real estate in your suitcase to bring a couple of bottles home with you – a stop at the Biscoitos Wine Museum is worthwhile. The spot tells the generations-old history of the region’s verdelho wine, which is the product of vines from porous lava rock instead of fertile soil. After a tour of the museum – which will take an hour tops – guests are invited to sample and purchase locally produced wines.

What To Eat In Terceira

When it comes to the culinary scene in Terceira, there’s a lot worth writing home about, including the signature alcatra, a local specialty beef pot roast that is made slowly in a clay pot for 12 hours and served with sweetbread, rice and potatoes. If you’re more of a seafood lover, opt for the traditional “caldeirada de peixe” fish stew, which is jammed packed with fish found at local seafood markets.

The nice thing about the restaurants in Terceira is that they couldn’t feel more authentic, with many lacking English menus. We clocked in a few hours enjoying alcatra with delicious bread at Taberna da Queomada, a homey house-like spot with a fireplace, record player, and a top-secret jam to accompany some pretty memorable cheese, where the owner is happy to strike up a conversation. Another spot to savour a memorable alcatra is the Quinta do Martelo, a restaurant in a traditional farm that also dishes up a side of a photo-worthy landscape of old stone buildings on the sprawling grounds.

Other talking points include highly addictive cheese with each meal, butter that will result in an increased bread intake (guaranteed), and wine. Every island in the Azores produces cheese, each slightly different but each equally as delicious. The island’s vineyards – found in Biscoitos – are divided with volcanic rock walls, offering a natural greenhouse to protect grapevines against the elements like heat and salty ocean wind. September is the big month for wine production.

You can’t leave Terceira without trying one of the Dona Amélia cakes, a longtime conventional sweet pasty from the island that is served in individual serving sizes and made with honey and cinnamon mixed with raisons and ciders. As visitors quickly learn from the locals, the name of the dessert is associated with the visit of Queen Amélia to Terceira. Rice pudding is also a popular dessert option. Aside from the comforting cooking, one of the best parts about wining, dining, and getting a quality caffeine fix in Terceira is that it will hardly dent the wallet.

Where To Stay In Terceira

One of the best spots to stay in Terceira is the Terceira Mar Hotel, where all rooms offer ocean views with a balcony, with stunning sights of the sea, volcanoes, greenery, and a massive infinity pool that completes the photo op. The sprawling hotel also has a private access to the sea, and features a health club with an indoor heated pool, gym, Turkish bath, and sauna to unwind after a day of exploring. As an appreciated perk, this hotel features free wifi throughout. 

Where To Play In Terceira

If you’re looking for large, music-pumping nightclubs, you’re on the wrong island – Terceira is definitely not a party destination. Instead, you’ll find people shaking off the day at smaller bars, blues spots, and local steakhouses. If you’re staying in a quality hotel, usually the bar is just as bustling as any spot you’ll find within Terceira’s streets.

How To Get To Terceira

Azores Airlines offers direct flights from Toronto’s Pearson International Airport to the Ponta Delgada in the nearby island of Sao Miguel. From Sao Miguel, you can either take another short Azores Airlines flight (roughly about 30 minutes) or a ferry. Either way, you may want to book your trip soon so that you can arrive on the island before the mass influx of tourism does.

A huge thanks to Azores Airlines for hosting us on this press trip. As always, reviews and opinions are our own.

PIN this image for future travel inspo!