“It was like pulling back a screen,” says farmer Joe O’Connor on discovering and ultimately unearthing a lost ancient town on a property he purchased as a family home in Kilkenny. Now, crumbling remains of the town have been revealed – from foundation of houses to tombs and a church – along with rich tales of the early settlers that once occupied the land some 800 years ago.
This is just one of the history-rich experiences offered in Ireland’s Ancient East (IAE) that will be remembered long after the flight home.
With its shades of green, lush rolling hills, crashing waves and storied castles, IAE is most definitely a dreamy place. The often-melancholy weather adds to this dreaminess, as you find yourself deep in your thoughts, imagining the lives and times of those who were part of the region’s rich history – from the Celts and Vikings to ancient royalty.
Best explored road trip-style, a landscape filled with stone age monuments, picturesque farmland, early Christian monasteries, ancient churches and stunning views characterizes Ireland’s Ancient East – a region that covers the area outside of Dublin and east of the River Shannon, from Carlingford to Cavan and south to Cork City, including East County Cork and East County Limerick.
In May, I arrived in Ireland as a first-timer. After an early morning bus tour of Dublin, the epic road trip began, taking us through Wicklow, Wexford, Waterford and Kilkenny, as we ventured back in time, absorbing all of the details in a way I never could from a history textbook.
From off the beaten path to popular tourist must-sees, here are all the stops to make on a road trip through Ireland’s Ancient East…
15 Must-See Road Trip Stops In Ireland’s Ancient East
1.Killiney Hill
Location: Killiney
Recommended time: 45-60 minutes
Located 14 km from Dublin’s city centre in the prestigious south Dublin suburb of Killiney – a place where famous faces like Bono and Enya call home – Killiney Hill is a must-stop for photo ops. Killiney Hill and Dalkey Hill form part of Killiney Hill Park, a small public park overlooking both Dalkey and Killiney villages that (on a clear day, at least) offers stunning views of Dublin to the northwest, the Irish Sea and the mountains of Wales to the east and southeast, and Bray Head and the Wicklow Mountains to the south.
2. Kilruddery House and Gardens
Location: Wicklow
Recommended Time: 1.5 hours
You may recognize the historic Kilruddery House and Gardens from film and television projects like Far and Away, Angela’s Ashes, The Tudors and Camelot. Located on the outskirts of the capital where Dublin meets Wicklow, the sprawling property has been home to the Brabazon Family since 1618. Here, you can take a peaceful stroll through the renowned gardens, enjoy a picnic or take a tour of the notable mansion, which is filled with paintings and artifacts of times past. Offering a welcome dose of fresh air and open spaces during your road trip, the gardens are filled with water features, wooded areas, beautiful planting and distinctive outdoor “rooms.”
3. The Monastic Site and Scenic Lake of Glendalough
Location: Wicklow
Recommended Time: 60 minutes
Filled with photo-worthy and interesting remains of a 6th century early Christian ecclesiastical settlement – like stone churches, decorated crosses, gravestones and an intact round tower – this monastic site is definitely a worthwhile stop for the history buffs. In addition to the remains, the spot is set in a glacial valley, and its two scenic lakes offer a quality place to pose for pictures and to take in the easy-on-the-eyes landscape.
4. Sally Gap in the Wicklow Mountains National Park
Location: Wicklow
Recommended Time: 15 minutes
It’s definitely worth taking a few minutes to stop and stare at Sally Gap in the Wicklow Mountains National Park – a filming location for the hit television series Vikings. With a backdrop of textured mountains, greenery and peaceful lakes, the Wicklow National Park is a visually pleasing spot (especially in ‘panoramic mode’) for the double-tap seekers.
5. The Olde Shillelagh Stick Maker
Location: Shillelagh Village
Recommended Time: 20 minutes
If you’re looking to speak with a knowledgeable local and in the market for souvenirs with a strong backstory, visit Liam Kealy (Liam O’Caidhla) – the definitive Shillelagh stick maker – to learn all about the rich history of the famous stick in Ireland. As a member of the Craft Council of Ireland, Kealy keeps his family tradition of creating quality Shillelagh sticks alive. In his shop, you’ll find everything from ornamental keepsakes to walking sticks and lethal fighting weapons.
6. Enniscorthy Castle
Location: Wexford
Recommended Time: 20 minutes
While not necessarily as breathtaking as other castles in Ireland’s Ancient East (to be honest), it’s worth making a quick stop at Enniscorthy Castle if even just to check out the ancient graffiti art in the dungeon, which was created by a prisoner 400 years ago. Originally built in the 13th century, the castle was home to Norman knights, English armies and local Wexford merchant families throughout the years.
7. Irish National Heritage Park
Location: Wexford
Recommended Time: 2 hours
For an information-filled visit back in time through Ireland’s past, carve out time for the Irish National Heritage Park. Making for a visually appealing and digestible way to understand life for Ireland’s earliest inhabitants, the outdoor not-for-profit museum depicts 9000 years of re-created history. Located within natural forestry and wet woodlands on the banks of the picturesque River Slaney, the park offers a fresh breath of nature alongside the history lesson.
8. Dunbrody Famine Ship
Location: New Ross
Recommended Time: 60 minutes
Although admittedly a tad tourist-filled, the Dunbrody Famine Ship offers an immersive look into life aboard a packed emigrant vessel in the 1800s that will stimulate the imagination. Centered on an authentic reproduction of an 1840’s ship, it provides a world-class interpretation of the famine emigrant experience; a time when countless Irish left town for North America. The attraction features a guided tour, costumed performers and themed exhibitions.
9. Tintern Abbey and Colclough Walled Garden
Location: Wexford
Time: 1.5 hours
Step back in time as you explore the remains of a Cistercian abbey, founded c. 1200 by William, the Earl Marshall, and named after Tintern in Wales. The remains of Tintern Abbey consist of the nave, chancel, tower, chapel and cloister. The abbey was partly converted into living quarters after 1541, and occupied by the Colclough family from the 16th century until 1960s. Equally as impressive as Tintern Abbey is the sprawling and colourful garden that sits behind it, filled with all the scents and sights you didn’t know you were missing in your life.
10. Hook Head Lighthouse
Location: Wexford
Time: 60 minutes (two hours with lunch at the café).
For a lesson in history, captivating ocean views and fish and chips worth posting about, hit Hook Head Lighthouse. The oldest operational lighthouse in the world, Hook Head Lighthouse is located at the tip of the Hook Peninsula and was built 800 years ago by Knight William Marshal. Here, you can take a guided tour, where you’ll hear all about the medieval times by the sea and what life was like for a light keeper and his family.
With its rock-filled landscape and crashing waves below, the lighthouse property makes a prime spot for photo ops.
11. The Museums of Waterford Treasures
Location: Waterford
Time: 3 hours
Get up close and personal with the history of Waterford – Ireland’s oldest city – at three Waterford museums, known collectively as Waterford Treasures: Reginald’s Tower, the Medieval Museum and the Bishop’s Palace. The three impressive museums will take you through the rich history of Waterford – from the Vikings to medieval kings. Among other interesting artifacts, at the Medieval Museum, you’ll find a hat worn by Henry VIII – his only surviving piece of clothing.
12. Waterford Greenway
Location: Waterford
Time: 2 hours
For some physical activity filled with rewarding views, rent a bike and cycle the peaceful and storybook-like 46-km Waterford Greenway. Garvan Cummins the Greenway Bike Man will lead you on a tour of the former rail trail. Along the way, you’ll find everything from moss-covered walls and art left for “fairies,” to inspirational photo ops, as you make your way over through the bridge and tunnel-dotted path.
13. Jerpoint Park
Location: Kilkenny
Recommended Time: 1.5 hours
One spot that you won’t want to skip is Jerpoint Park, the home of The Lost Town of Newtown Jerpoint. Here, you can explore the recently unearthed remains of a 12th century lost medieval town – one that was buried in earth and time until a farmer purchased the property a dozen years ago, made the discovery and excavated the hilly landscape. It’s this same farmer, Joe O’Connor, who now gives tours of the property, pointing out the crumbling remains of the ancient town and telling its ghost stories.
14. Kilkenny Castle
Location: Kilkenny
Recommended Time: 2 hours
In the middle of the bustle of Kilkenny is the breathtaking Kilkenny Castle; a popular tourist spot for the fans of history and architecture. Founded soon after the Norman conquest of Ireland, the Castle has been rebuilt, extended and adapted to suit changing circumstances and uses over a period of 800 years. In addition to exploring its beautiful interior, guests enjoy the property’s abundant rolling parkland in the warmer months.
15. Smithwicks Experience
Location: Kilkenny
Recommended Time: 1.5 hours
Those with a soft spot for beer – especially Smithwicks – will appreciate a tour of the Smithwicks Experience. In addition to beer-tasting, you’ll hear all about the famed brew, which has been crafted in Ireland since 1710. The staff will explain why it’s so unique and how it’s shaped the country’s history. To keep a mild post-tour buzz going, hit the row of pubs across the street before calling it a night.
A huge thanks to Tourism Ireland for hosting us on this press trip. As always, reviews and opinions are entirely our own.
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