I get it now. The islander’s have a saying “aux Îles, on n’a pas l’heure, on a le temps” and it couldn’t be more accurate. You see, Îles de la Madeleine is the kind of place where the concept of time feels a bit… irrelevant. A place where landscapes command your attention, so much so that you start forgetting (or caring) what day or time it is. A place where the only option is to be present…
Sound idyllic? It is. There aren’t many places on this planet that I’d opt to visit time and time again, but I’d return to Îles de la Madeleine in a heartbeat. An archipelago of a dozen islands in the heart of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it’s a Canadian destination that should be on everyone’s bucket list. Think: remote islands, rolling green hills dotted with colourful houses, red sandstone cliffs, fresh seafood, long stretches of soft sandy beaches, epic sunsets, cute marine animals, friendly locals…the list goes on and on.
Do yourself a favour and book a trip to Îles de la Madeleine now. Don’t think twice. Just do it and thank me later. Then come back to this blog and use it as your guide to plan the trip of a lifetime — one that will be forever etched in your memory.
When To Visit Îles de la Madeleine
I surveyed the locals and they all agreed that July and August are the best months to visit Îles de la Madeleine (with August being the warmer of the two). My family and I journeyed to the islands at the end of August and the conditions were perfect. It was warm enough to swim and only rained once. That being said, I do recommend packing a light jacket because the weather can be unpredictable and windy on the islands. Oh, and if you’re thinking of visiting during the summer, you’ll need to book accommodations 8-12 months in advance as it’s high season and the hotels fill up fast!
How To Get To & Around Îles de la Madeleine
There’s a direct Air Canada flight from Montreal to Îles de la Madeleine, but we had a stopover since we flew from Toronto. If you’re doing the same, expect a full travel day given potential delays and the buffer time needed at the airports.
Not ready to hop on a flight quite yet? You can also drive and take the ferry from Souris, Prince Edward Island to Îles de la Madeleine! That way you won’t need to secure a car rental on the islands either (they’re in short supply and should be booked well in advance). Although it is possible to visit without renting a car (especially if you stay at Auberge La Salicorne), I highly recommend one so you can explore the islands at your own pace.
Where To Stay In Îles de la Madeleine
Domaine du Vieux Couvent
Of the five properties we stayed at in Îles de la Madeleine, Domaine du Vieux Couvent was by far my favourite. Think boutique luxury with a dash of history. Built between 1914 and 1918, this property used to be a convent so it oozes character!
The rooms are lined with stone walls, boast high ceilings and offer glorious panoramic views of the ocean.
We stayed in “Les Amicalistes” and loved how bright and spacious our suite was. The rain shower in the bathroom was much appreciated as was the extra bed for Little Luka!
Sunrises at this hotel are a real treat so set that alarm and enjoy the show from their restaurant or from the comfort of your room!
Auberge La Salicorne
I must admit, Auberge La Salicorne surprised me. I arrived expecting a typical resort-style all-inclusive and left feeling like we had an authentic experience. That’s because this non-profit organization is dedicated to helping locals and visitors connect with the islands via well-thought-out activities that showcase the surrounding environment. From clam fishing and clay baths at a nearby beach (transportation is included) to kayaking and pedal boats onsite, you definitely get a sense of place here…
And did I mention it’s fun?! I kind of felt like I was at camp with an array of activities to choose from, group meal times and cozy cabin-like rooms (note: bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper as the walls are thin). The daily list of entertainment is enough to keep even the most active kids/adults engaged. They even have an adventure park and a seal interpretation centre onsite!
Auberge La Salicorne is basically made for families and those who love outdoor adventure. My favourite excursion was their hike to Île Boudreau. Wow, just wow…
Oh, and if you’re looking for unique accommodations, they have Cosy Bubble tents onsite! They’re very spacious and totally up my alley (note: washrooms are outside and shared).
Château Madelinot
One of the larger hotels on the islands, Chateau Madelinot is a great option for families. With pool facilities, spacious rooms and a fantastic restaurant (more on that below), they have everything you’ll need for a comfortable stay.
These guys are also known for their Seal-Pup Excursions (which made it on National Geographic’s annual Best Trip list)! So if you’re thinking of planning an epic winter trip, helicopter ride and all, put this hotel on your bucket list. And don’t leave without trying a popular local dish on their breakfast menu: beignets/banax.
Where To Eat & Drink In Îles de la Madeleine
Gourmande De Nature
Gourmand De Nature was our favourite restaurant on the islands so don’t skip this one! The kitchen is headed up by Johanne Vigneau who is a native of the islands and one of its most acclaimed chefs. Expect local ingredients, perfectly-balanced flavour profiles and a memorable meal. You can really taste her passion for food in each bite. The standout dishes were the salted cod and the octopus and fish tacos.
Les Pas Perdus
Ruuuun for the scallop poutine at Les Pas Perdus. I know, I know — it sounds strange, but it works! This local hangout is one of those places you’ll want to head to for good eats, drinks and a lively ambiance. Bonus: they have an outdoor fire pit which really hits the spot on chilly nights.
Pizza d’la Pointe
This popular pizza joint serves up all kinds of unique pizzas (some are even topped with seal which is a local delicacy). We ordered the Pêcheur (made with béchamel sauce, lobster, shrimp, scallops, shrimp etc.) and devoured it while watching our first sunset on the islands. Highly recommend you do the same!
Le Café de la Grave
When we asked our local friend Kate for her must-eat recommendations, the first thing she excitedly blurted out was “pot-en-pot!” So, of course, we had to try it. She pointed us to Le Café de la Grave for the hearty dish and it did not disappoint.
Housed in a former general store built in 1865, Le Café de la Grave also has a great ambiance. If you’re travelling with kids like we were, I recommend sitting outside on the patio so the kiddos can play on the rocky beach while you enjoy your meal.
À L’abri de la Tempête
À L’abri de la Tempête was founded by two women (YAY!) and serves up some unique local beer. They proudly source ingredients from the distinct terroir of the islands and pay homage to the region with every brew. So if you want a “taste” of the islands, this spot has your name on it.
I recommend visiting this brewery just before sunset, ordering a flight of beer (Cale Sèche and Écume were my personal favourites), grabbing a few snacks and taking in the lively ambiance. You’ll likely end up chatting with nearby tables and sticking around longer than planned —that is, until the mosquitos have their own fiesta.
Chez Armand
Much-loved by locals, Chez Armand is where you’ll want to go for lobster rolls and poutine. It’s a budget-friendly stop with a large enough menu to please even the pickiest eaters.
Bistro Accents
Our dinner at Bistro Accents was one of the best meals we had on the islands. The scallop ceviche with mango and prosciutto, tuna tartare with strawberries, lobster risotto and the elk special were all incredible. Chef Hugo Lefrançois really nailed the flavours and presentation. Definitely book a table here!
CindyHook Café
If I had to pick one spot to hang out at for hours/days, this would be it. There’s just something about CindyHook — it’s truly a community hub with a soul…
Drawing all kinds of people with their coffee (the best on the islands in my opinion), SUP, kayaking, specialized tours and ship playground (a toddler’s dream), you can really feel the pulse of Îles de la Madeleine at CindyHook. It quickly became our local coffee spot!
Le Bistro Plongée Alpha
This family-run bistro is the talk of the islands and I now understand why! Owned by Mario Cyr (a well-known diver and photographer), the ambiance is like no other place we visited. It’s warm, friendly, loud, exciting… just like stepping inside a Madelinot’s home!
The food is just as approachable and comforting, but with no compromise when it comes to using high quality ingredients. In fact, these guys serve up the freshest seafood you’ll find on the islands — likely caught on the same day by a fisherman who may just be seated next to you. It’s a culinary experience not to be missed!
Coeur d’herboriste
Coeur d’herboriste is the place to head for smoothies, salads and all-things-green/healthy. If you’re a tea-lover, don’t skip this spot as they carry a huge range of teas. Looking for locally-made goods? They have that too! I ended up buying some jewelry to bring back home while Luka devoured his lunch.
Boulangerie Madelon
Looking for an affordable, fast and fresh meal? You’ll want to stop in at Boulangerie Madelon. This popular bakery has been around since 1964 and specialize in artisanal breads, traditional dishes and delicious baked goods.
Crèmerie du Port
Is it even a trip to the islands if you haven’t had ice cream?! I think not! We absolutely loved Crèmerie du Port — it’s an ice cream shop done right. Colourful seating inside (with fun swings), delish ice cream flavours and there’s a park adjacent to the shop so the kiddos can run off the sugar. It’s kinda perfect.
What To Do In Îles de la Madeleine
Explore The Caves & Cliffs At Plage de la Pointe-aux-Loups
Don’t leave the islands without a visit to this paradise. At first glance it may look like the other beaches that hug the islands, but trust me this one is beyond special. In fact, it quickly became one of my favourite spots on the planet. There’s just something about the labyrinth of caves and cliffs tucked away at the end of the main beach… Imagine the Algarves without the tourists. It’s a place where you can truly admire the magnificent landscape without distraction. You’ll want to stick around until sunset to witness the real magic. There are no words to describe it…
Note: although it may be tempting to swim your way around the caves, the currents are quite strong at this beach so be extra cautious! When we arrived when the tide was just low enough to explore by foot and we felt safe doing so.
Book A Zodiac Adventure With Excursions en Mer
This award-winning tour company has been around since 1979 and offers many tours. We chose the seal watching tour and spotted many seals! I’m not sure if the kids liked the boat ride or the seals more… nevertheless, this is a fun family excursion and a great way to get a different perspective of the islands.
Watch The Sunset At Belle-Anse
Another dreamy spot for a sunset, Belle-Anse needs to be on everyone’s itinerary. The jaw-dropping red cliffs, beaches and hiking trail draw many visitors and artists (we saw a few painting the landscape). Keep your eyes peeled for private property signs and explore cautiously as there are no fences and a very big drop from the edge.
Visit A Traditional Smokehouse At Le Fumoir d’Antan
This traditional smokehouse is a family business that’s been around since 1942. They offer a fascinating tour where they share their history and show you how they smoke herring (fun fact: it takes three months!) You’ll also get a chance to try and buy their products which I highly recommend.
Swim At Plage De La Dune du Sud
A beach day in Îles de la Madeleine is a must, but finding the right beach may be a bit tricky if you have kids due to strong currents and winds. Of all the beaches we visited, I personally loved Plage De La Dune du Sud the most for swimming. The water was calm (and warm!), the sand was soft and the caves were gorgeous.
Visit The Lighthouse At Cap Alright
Recognize this lighthouse? You may have seen it on a series of Canada Post stamps! It was built in 1928 and was the last (and smallest) lighthouse built on the archipelago. Small, but mighty — I love it. We had a great time exploring the area by foot and recommend you pop by early in the morning to catch the sunrise.
Shop At Site De La Côte
Site De La Côte is a vibrant community hub dotted with colourful shops! You can easily spend half a day buying locally-made goods, indulging in a coffee/ice cream/meal on the patio, visiting the incredible kite store (Boutique Au Gré du Vent), enjoying free outdoor shows and walking around the fishing wharf of L’Étang-du-Nord.
Cider Tasting At Le Verger Poméloi
This is the first and only orchard on the islands and a must-visit in my opinion. They have a modern tasting room, sun-soaked patio and make some very unique ciders.
The small, family-run orchard does everything from growing to bottling! Oh, and don’t leave without checking out their beautiful organic orchard down the street. They grow apples inside bottles for their fortified cider — something I’ve never seen!
Old Harry Beach (Grande Échouerie Beach)
Squeak Squeak. This beach feels endless (8.5 km to be exact) and is known for its squeaky sand! So basically, it’s toddler heaven. Luka was very entertained and also loved the park beside the boardwalk. Note: the current here is very strong so I wouldn’t recommend it as a swimming spot for kids (especially on windy days).
Explore La Grave By Foot
This historical area was the site of the first settlements on the islands. It’s super cute, walkable and has tons of local shops, a theatre, museums and hosts many special events. You can definitely spend a full day here! My favourite shops were Atelier Côtier and À Marée Basse — both were beautifully curated and very unique so definitely pop in!
And while you’re in the area, make sure to have a meal at Le Café de la Grave (listed above) and dessert at La Chocolaterie Eaux Iles!
Catch The Sunset Borgot Lighthouse
Another lighthouse? Yes. Borgot Lighthouse will forever hold a special place in my heart because it’s where we watched our first sunset on the islands. It quite literally took my breath away…
Spend Time With The Locals!
And lastly, spend time with the Madelinots as much as possible! We were very fortunate and had a chance to hang out with the incredible Kate who gave us some solid recommendations (and taught us a few words in French LOL) AND Patrice (owner of La Butte Ronde) who graciously took us out on his private boat. The generosity of the islanders is what makes this a destination you’ll want to visit time and time again so definitely take the time to get to know them!
A huge merci to Le Québec Maritime for hosting us on a trip of a lifetime and sponsoring this post so we could share our experience with you. As always, opinions are my very own.
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