I’m not sure what I expected, but Freiburg really surprised me. Lined with cobblestone streets, colourful buildings and bächle (little streams used by local kids as waterways for toy boats), it quickly became one of my favourite walkable cities in Europe…
Nestled on the foothills of the Black Forest, I could faintly feel Freiburg’s somber past as we wandered around (much of the Medieval City was bombed and destroyed in 1944), but it was overshadowed by a joyous energy radiating from its core. Today’s Freiburg is whimsical, lively (home to one of the oldest universities in Germany) and a great city to explore with friends/family. Did I mention it’s highly Instagrammable? Yup, that too. I’d recommend staying for at least three nights, but if you only have 48 hours in Freiburg like we did, here’s what you should see, do and eat…
What To See And Do In Freiburg
1. Freiburg Münster
Spared from bombings during the war, this cathedral has been a proud landmark in Freiburg for over 800 years…
It’s intricate, awe-inspiring and has a three-ton bell with the most beautiful sound. You’ll want to head up the tower to admire its details, but be warned that there’s no elevator and 333 steps!
2. Klein Venedig (Little Venice)
Get your cameras ready and take a stroll on Gerberau and Fischerau to check out the small shops, colourful houses, galleries and restaurants dotting the narrow streets. And watch out for the crocodile in the Gewerbebach stream! Yet another example of the playful character of the city.
3. Freiburg Bächle
You won’t have to look hard to spot the Freiburg bächle (long gutters that stream clean water throughout the city). In fact, you may even trip over one if you’re not careful — I did and apparently this means I’ll have to marry a local one day LOL.
Although slightly hazardous for adults, they are adored by kids who tow little wooden boats on them throughout the city. How cute is that?! I bought one for my little guy…
4. Schlossberg (Castle Mountain)
Oh I loved this mountain so much that I went up twice! Once by foot with my travel buddy Arienne and the second time via the Schlossbergbahn (a 3 min ride). You’ll want to head here for the views regardless of which route you take…
And do NOT leave Freiburg without witnessing a sunset from Schlossberg. They are really really special…
5. Schwabentor & Martinstor
You probably won’t miss the two medieval city gates as you wander around the historic Old Town, but do make an effort to see them. The Schwabentor Tower dates back to 1250 and the Martinstor Tower dates back to 1238. We were surprised to see a McDonald’s sign on the latter — thankfully without the golden arches…
6. Freiburg Christmas Market
Ok, this one is seasonal, but a MUST if you’re visiting Freiburg in November/December. It’s one of the unique Christmas markets in Germany that we visited this year and we absolutely LOVED it. From the ferris wheel to the interactive workshops, I guarantee you’ll make long-lasting memories at this Christmas market. Glühwein in hand…
7. Bar Hop
Regardless of your preferred drink, you’ll find a watering hole that you can raise a glass to in Freiburg. I personally loved Alte Wache Haus Der Badischen Weine for a glass of vino and people watching in Münsterplatz.
Schlappen is also a much-loved whisky bar that also happens to have Nette Toilette (nice bathroom), meaning you can pop in to use the facilities free of charge.
Where To Stay In Freiburg
If you love luxury hotels as much as I do, Colombi Hotel will likely tick all the boxes. It’s elegant, centrally located and has a Michelin-Star restaurant.
For a mid-range hotel, book your stay at Hotel Am Stadtgarten and ask for a room in their new building like we did. I loved how sleek, modern and spacious my room was. The city mural above the bed was a really nice touch as well…
What To Eat In Freiburg
1. Drexlers Wein & Essen
The food, service, ambiance — everything is exceptional at this restaurant near Colombipark. Best part? Drexlers is unpretentious and the most affordable Michelin-Star experience I’ve ever had (27 euros for my lunch). But I assure you that quality is not compromised — it was the tastiest meal I devoured in Freiburg! Note: Drexlers is popular so definitely reserve a table well in advance.
2. Ganter Brauereiausschank
For a quintessential German feast paired with a local beer, head to this restaurant and brewery that’s been around since 1865. I recommend the Ganter Wodan Strong Dark Beer and the Hirschrücken Mit Kürbisgemüse Und Wildschwein Ravioli (venison with pumpkin and wild boar ravioli)…
And when surrounded by the Black Forest, it seems wrong to order anything other than Black Forest Cake for dessert! This one was light and not too sweet — just how I like it…
3. Freiburg Markthalle
I was expecting a traditional fruit/veg market when we walked in, but was pleasantly surprised by the ethnic food stalls and champagne bar inside the Freiburg Markethalle. It’s a great spot to visit if you want a break from German fare or want to splurge on some bubbly.
4. Hans Im Glück
I had no idea this was a popular burger chain until after we dined here! The design caught my eye as we walked by (think: birch trees, gold accents and a space flooded with natural light), so we took a chance and randomly ate at Hans im Glück.
Turns out it was one fabulous (and well-priced) meal. Do yourself a favour and order the Feuriger Burger and Strawberry and Basil Thirst Quencher! This is a great spot for vegetarians and vegans too.
5. Wolfshöhle Restaurant
Carefully and lovingly prepared dishes — that’s what you can expect at this Michelin-Star restaurant owned and operated by a husband and wife duo. The food is modern, beautifully plated and delicious. Not sure how they make their consommé with maultaschen, but it’s a mainstay on the menu and shouldn’t be missed.
Beautiful on both the outside and inside, Wolfshöhle is the kind of place you’ll want to reserve for a special night out. We had our last dinner in Germany there and it was the perfect way to end our trip.
I can’t quite put my finger on it, but there’s something really special about Freiburg. Wandering around its streets made me feel curious, happy and inspired. It’s one of those places I know I’ll return to time and time again…
A huge thanks to the German National Tourist Office and Freiburg Tourism for hosting us and sponsoring this post.
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